Care Guide

A knife from this shop is not delicate, but carbon steel keeps a short list of rules. Follow them and the blade will outlast both of us. Ignore them and it will forgive you more often than you deserve - but not forever.

After use

Wipe the blade dry. That is the whole rule. Water and acid are the only enemies carbon steel has, and a shirttail defeats both. If you cut something wet, salty, or citrus, rinse and dry before you sheath it. Never let a blade sleep wet in leather.

Oil

Once a month, or whenever the blade will sit for a while, run a light coat of mineral oil down each flat. Kitchen knives get food-safe mineral oil only. The handle takes the same treatment two or three times a year - a drop worked in with your thumb, wiped back off after ten minutes.

The patina

Carbon steel goes grey, then blue-grey, then nearly black where it works the most. This is not damage; it is the knife keeping a diary. A working patina protects against the red rust that actually matters. If you want it gone anyway, flour-grade pumice and oil will take it back to bright.

Sharpening

Strop often, stone seldom. A loaded strop after every few uses keeps the convex edges convex and puts off real sharpening for months. When the time comes, any water stone from 1,000 grit up will do - hold the angle the blade gives you and let the stone do the counting. If you would rather not, send it back with a note. I sharpen every knife I have ever made for the cost of return postage.

What not to do

No dishwashers. No pry bars. No throwing, unless the knife has wronged you personally. The Brush Hook will baton and chop all day; the Hearth will not open a paint can with dignity. Use each knife for the work it was ground for and the guarantee covers everything else.